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modeling tips

Interview with a modeling agent
My objective was to hear directly from an agency what they look for in models and photographers.
Here's what I learned. 


Picture format:
They prefer to get actual pictures instead of looking at images on a computer screen.  Kathy (the agent i interviewed) does not really care about the format of the picture because she is not looking for great photography when she is looking for models.  A couple of 4x6 prints is sufficient for a first look.  Once she thinks you have potential you then go out and get more pics and compile a book and comp sheet.  She spends time with you on what your look should be and the style of the photos she is after that she knows will get you work.  She has many clients and knows what each one is looking for so she positions the models to meet the clients needs. She showed me 3 model's books.  A male and two females.  The male was on the edge of the guy next door and a hot stud.  One of the women was "Miss everyone" and the other was a drop dead beautiful European with the best photography I've ever seen in a portfolio (models or photographers).  The guy and Miss everyone work consistently in the Boston area.  The High fashion beautiful Model is limited in the Boston Market.  Some clients will use and appreciate her look, however the straight forward commercial clients would not be the ones booking here. Here look is more conducive to high fashion clients and editorial rather than Talbots, TJ Max etc..  Very interesting !

What should be in a models book? A full range of location shots, head shots and commercial type (with props, jewelry, etc.)  The format (digital prints, silver prints, tear sheets) does not matter.  A mix of all is just fine.  The photos should have a clean look. The content should look very natural.  The scene should fit the clothes.  Her clients do mostly location type stuff and if it's done in a studio a white background works well. 

Models age:
She has had models start as teens (15+) up to 30 something's.  It depends on the models look and on her client's needs.  The 30 something's often play family members or moms.

Should a model include
body parts only in her book such as hands, legs etc. ~by all means if they are great.  There is a requirement for hands etc.

How much do Photographers cost?
From $150 to $500 for a test.  She recommends that a young model (under 17) do several test with the $150 photographers since their look keeps changing and they do not need to hit the ground running like a 30 year old might. 

Why is there such a huge range in Prices?
The $ 500 photographer provides a stylist, makeup person and an entire range of outfits for the model to wear during the shoot.  I asked who did this in Boston and Kathy said that total service usually happens in NY. She also said that you should expect more useable shots/session from the more experienced photographers so it saves time.

Do models generally sign exclusives with you?
Yes.  the Dept. of Labor now requires that a contract exist between a model and her/his agent.  It does not have to be lots of legalese just a statement of responsibilities and terms. It also does not have to be exclusive but according to Kathy the better agencies in Boston require exclusivity.

Contact sheets vs. 4x6 proofs: Some photographers do just contact sheets while others do 4x6 proofs.  She thinks it's a benefit for the model to get proofs since they are easier to see and scan.  The disadvantage for the photographer who makes his/her money on enlargements is that there may not be any enlargements ordered.